Wednesday, March 25, 2020
As the weather starts to get steamy, the last thing you want to be doing is spackling on foundation and other flaw-concealing concoctions. That's why pre-summer is the perfect time to take charge of your skin and get its irksome issues under control. We consulted top dermatologists to get the most proven treatments for your common skin complaints; start using them now, and you'll be able to go blissfully light on the makeup all season long.
1. The Problem: Flaking
Even when it's warm out, skin can still be parched and flake-prone, especially if you're out in the sun often. Resist the instant gratification of sloughing the dead skin off with a very gritty-feeling scrub; these can be too harsh and just lead to more flaking plus redness, says Boston dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD. Instead, use one with smooth, synthetic beads, like Olay Regenerist Thermal Mini Peel. Even more important is to maximize your moisturizing routine. "Think of your epidermis as a brick wall," Dr. Hirsch says. "Moisture is the mortar that holds those bricks together, and when you don't have enough, those bricks—skin cells—are going to fall off." In addition to moisturizing in the morning, quench skin throughout the day by misting on a hydrating spray, like Evian Mineral Water Spray, then sealing it in by immediately applying moisturizer. Photo courtesy of Olay.
2. The Problem: Shine
Got skin that turns into a grease slick when it's warm out? Although excess oil is primarily a hormonal issue, humid weather can make the problem seem worse. Rather than strip your skin using harsh cleansers or toners—the oil will just come right back—apply a product each morning that's designed to absorb oil as it surfaces. Dr. Hirsch swears by Vichy Normaderm Pro Mat Ultra-Mattifying Oil-Free Lotion. "It's like a sponge that keeps soaking up oil all day long; I recommend it to patients who appear on TV often, like newscasters and politicians, because it keeps their skin completely matte." Mineral face powders and oil-absorbing blotting papers are also great for erasing shine when you're on the go. Photo courtesy of Vichy Laboratories.
3. The Problem: Redness
Rosy cheeks are one thing, but nobody wants the permanently-flushed-all-over look. To offset the ruddiness that often comes with hot weather, switch to a moisturizer designed to counter the problem, like La Roche-Posay Rosaliac Anti-Redness Moisturizer (a favorite of dermatologists), which has a slight green tint. "Green is opposite red on the color wheel, so it neutralizes the redness," explains New York dermatologist Neal Schultz, MD, founder of DermTV. If your redness still shines through, smooth on a green-tinted foundation primer, like Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer. If you think your redness is the result of rosacea, consult a dermatologist, who can recommend effective prescription treatments; same goes for broken capillaries and especially stubborn pink acne scarring. Photo courtesy of La Rouche-Posay.
4. The Problem: Big Pores/Blackheads
Both of these skin symptoms are the result of excess sebum clogging your pores; it can stretch out pores as well as reflect light, making pores seem larger. Then, blackheads result when the sticky skin oils trap bacteria inside the pore, which oxidize when they hit the air and give these blemishes their dark cast. The trick is not just to wash twice daily with a cleanser formulated for oily skin—at night, you also want to apply an ingredient that will dissolve the slick stuff deep down in pores, like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, recommends Dr. Schultz. Try Peter Thomas Roth Max Complexion Correction Pads, which pack a hefty dose of both ingredients. Photo courtesy of Peter Thomas Roth.
5. The Problem: Dark Patches
Rather than giving you an all-over glow, the sun can sometimes cause darkening of the skin in certain zones, like your hairline, upper lip or cheeks. This is often due to melasma, a condition in which UV light interacts with hormones; it's a common problem among women who are on the Pill, pregnant or going through menopause. The number-one way to combat melasma is to wear a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen every single day and to reapply every two to three hours when you're outdoors. To lighten existing patches, first try an over-the-counter product like Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, which has also been proven to work on acne scars and age spots. Ingredients like soy, kojic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids and retinol all help erase excess pigmentation by exfoliating the skin. If your dark zones are stubborn, see a dermatologist about getting a prescription hydroquinone treatment, which can make darkness disappear within four to six weeks. Photo courtesy of Clinique.
6. The Problem: Fine Lines
When it comes to pesky fine lines, one class of ingredients has the most studies backing up its effectiveness: retinoids. These vitamin A derivatives stimulate new collagen production and speed skin-cell turnover to visibly reduce the appearance of those dreaded age-related crinkles. In over-the-counter antiaging treatments, look for retinol high on the ingredients list; experts like Philosophy Help Me. For faster results, get a prescription retinoid cream from a dermatologist. Whatever retinoid product you choose, apply it at night, since sunlight deactivates the ingredients; during the day, be sure to wear sunscreen, as your skin will be more UV-sensitive. Photo courtesy of Philosophy.
7. The Problem: Dullness
Looking a little lackluster? That means it's time to up your exfoliation routine. "Dullness is caused by the uneven accumulation of dead cells, so it's easily treated with chemical or physical exfoliants," Dr. Schultz says—that means either scrubs with round granules that sweep dull skin away, or treatments that contain ingredients that'll dissolve them, like salicylic or glycolic acid. Getting a series of professional peels or microdermabrasion treatments is also a worthwhile investment; once they reveal your skin's long-lost glow, you can maintain the results through at-home exfoliation. Another tip: Look for a moisturizer that contains finely milled light-reflective particles, which impart skin with luminousness; try Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 15. Photo courtesy of Aveeno.
8. The Problem: Pimples
Strange how we still associate acne with the high school years, since the majority of women continue to get them throughout adulthood, thanks to constant hormonal fluctuations and chronic stress. Luckily, there are many more effective treatments available today than there were back when you took Calculus 101. One smart approach: Smooth on a gel with a high concentration of salicylic acid—like Mario Badescu Anti-Acne Serum—to zit-prone zones before you go to bed each night. By dissolving oil clogs in your pores, it leaves acne-causing bacteria nowhere to thrive, and unlike some formulas targeted at teenagers, it won't leave grownup skin parched and irritated. Photo courtesy of Mario Badescu.